What have the romans ever done for us?


 


On reflection roman influence been a big part of personal history and local surrounds, whether it be the basis for the roads and fortification of Loughor to the more complex garrisons and villas in Caerleon and Caerwent. But no harm in taking a look at how they made their mark in this part of the world, a lot nearer to the centre of their empire.

A world UNESCO heritage site nearby proclaimed to give some insight. I seem to have hit world UNESCO sites at every turn it feels, and so had a look at what you need to be one.  It all feels a matter of interpretation as to whether you are going to get something groundbreaking or not. 1223 across the world so still hope for Loughor castle (previously Leucarum fort) I feel, especially after the great discoveries of 1982!

So the Butrint national park would allow us a glimpse into the past, primarily roman, but the way everyone seems to build on everyone elses work (the Normans for example in my last mention of Loughor) we would get to see Greek, Byzantine, and Venetian work too potentially.  So, so near the greek border too!


Before all that a breakfast of fruit, salad and eggs overlooking the Ionian apparently (not Adriatic), with some orange juice and coffee accompaniment not a bad way to start. 



Karma must have been kind after yesterdays bus trip with one turning up as soon as we left the hotel and with space to stand, and even a seat for Chrissi. Able to take in the journey and oxyjen much more freely, and the last few miles when everyone piled off at Ksamil were almost comfort.




Whilst we were in the national park it was pretty much a settlement we had come to see, and so we could see its positioning, near the straits of Corfu as clearly being of strategic value to many an empire.  We paid our entrance fee of around 10 euros each and began to explore.  A couple of pillars, not quite Caesars palace, but they nicely set the tone.


The centre piece of the community both now and then was the Theatre, Greeks having laid the foundations and indeed signatures, with the Romans adding to it as part of their religious leaning. A new god was to feature today, god of medicine Asclepius (greco - roman), need to see if any sign in my Deities and Demigods book back at home. Romans pretty good at assimilating whatever gods seemed to be in favour with the natives, we were onto an early Christian temple from 6AD around a stones throw from the Theatre.

old temple

theatre

all greek to me

new religions


En route to that we took in some more familiar roman sights, bathhouses, gymnasiums, and of course the shopping mall AKA Forum. Thoughts turned as it often does with the Romans to the plumbing, and the extensive aqueducts that would have underpinned this settlement, flowing from the adjacent lagoon. Fountains of nymphs need a bit of hydrating, and lake gate a place for the flow of goods.

shops

baths

nymphs?


So mostly Greek/Roman then but we did see later settlements across the water of the Venetian variety, including a large castle atop a steep hill we climbed. Lots of signs to avoid snakes, worrying creatures even in Roman times, not surprising they got a bad press in religious circles. My Indiana Jones style hat might have attracted them as his nemesis too, and I didn't fancy any viper encounters, sticking more to his archaeological skillset. We did around 2 hours there, plenty of shade, but still waring in the sun; appreciate I can't complain about the heat, sounds like the UK has it far worse!




A little wait for a bus, watching a few fellow passengers getting twitchy, but came it did and we made our way back to Saranda in relative comfort, well, we both had a seat!  We took the bus right through to Saranda centre as wanted to get our bearings for ferry tomorrow, and so took another look at the quayside. In the day it actually is not too bad, lots going on, but not as hectic at night and chance to see all the water activity and tourist stuff.  Stayed for an icecream which was a nice way to cool down and soak up the views before climbing back up to our hotel.




It was then Buze time, the water not too choppy so a little cool off dip, then a snooze and read on the loungers. Conflicted a little as I did want to do a run, but the streets are just too busy and uneven so I opted for a bit more time in the pool today. The positioning of everything in this hotel just has the guest at its heart and the staff (yes I know they are trained) just so warm and welcoming. Not sure I've ever stayed anywhere quite so homely yet is still a hotel!



The day was nicely slipping away from us and we still had to get the Balkan Balcony Buze down us, a montenegro brew tonight SVIJETLO, a little darker and richer and probably nudges to the top of the pops for quality.  2 to go, I was hoping for Serbia/Croatia/Bosnia but struggling so it will have to be Greek next (which is geographic Balkans) and of course Albanian. 


We moved from the balcony tonight before sunset so we could capture it on our hotels patio. I have only good things to say about this place, everything has been positioned perfectly for the guest.  We had cocktails, an old fashioned for me, taste complemented the falling sun over the Ionian / Adriatic, depending on how far you could se(a)?





We then learnt from last night and walked against the crowds up out of Saranda in search of a fish restaurant. Neither of us hugely hungry after beer and nibbles, but I wanted to continue my fish journey after yesterdays derailment. A little establishment that involved a little climb down (so I felt they would make an effort) and with the sea lapping below.  A bit of a greek nod in the starters with lightly spiced dip and saganaki. And then I went with the fresh sea bass, a fish novice am I, but meaty, combining comfortably with red cabbage and a nice juicy step forward. Where do I go next?




With a trip to another country tomorrow, the answer was bed and alarms set nice and early. Lucky we are getting a bit of sleep in the day too... so we can find that active balance we are looking for.

Comments

  1. Where are you off to tomorrow ? Sounds a lovely hotel

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    1. Corfu .. see my comments on yesterdays blog about the hotel in answer to a question by Haydn

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  2. Hi Lloyd,

    Just my kind of day, exploring, history and a relaxing end to the day. Sounds perfect.

    Given how cut-off Albania has seemed for most of my lifetime, it is interesting to see that it was fully integrated into the European heritage and tradition in the centuries before Hoxha came to power.

    I was doing a bit of history reading yesterday at it reminded me that evening in the 1040s Albania was a flash point between East and West, with a revolt against the Eastern Roman Empire rule from Constantinople.

    It is interesting that you have seen signs of Greek, Byzantine, and Venetian buildings, but not of the Ottoman rule which dominated this, and most of the Balkans, from the 15th century until 1912!! I guess there were signs of it in the mosque in Tirana, but not so much elsewhere.

    I was also interested to discover that the part of Albania you are in was Greek from 1914–1921 - under the title Northern Epirus - a complex bit of territory.

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    Replies
    1. Flippantly I did take a picture of some vendors selling Turkish Icecream which can be a little easter egg for you when I get around to doing my photo reel for the day, the last remnants of the Ottoman Empire! As ever your historical perspective much valued, forced me to do a little bit of reading for Corfu, although I left my Greece LP at home so Bryn sent some photo shots for me to try and use ... unsuccessfully!!

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    2. ​Turkish Ice Cream - that is a very clever connection.

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  3. Hello nymphs, lovely to catch up. Very informative information - Albania over the centuries - followed by a relaxing afternoon using the facilities of the lovely hotel. Glad you had the fish meal you wanted. Love from us, mum n dad, xxxx

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    Replies
    1. Dad likes a bit of fish, what would he recommend for me if I can find a restaurant?

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    2. My favourite Mediterranean fish (I assume they come up the Ionian/Adriatic too) is what the Spanish call - Merluza. I understand in Albanian it is known as Merluci or possibly Merluc - it is a full bodied white fish, perfect for carrying garlic and tomato sauce, but also tasty on its own. Most textbooks translate it into English as Hake, but it is not the same fish as what is called Hake in UK markets/Fish Shops which is the Atlantic Hake.

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    3. I did look, but went with the 'safer' octupus .. it was quite something swimming in a dish I will try and describe in next blog ... which will be a 2 day job later on I think

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    4. I love Octopus, but Drew won't touch it, while he will eat fish and other seafood - so I didn't suggest that - hope it was good.

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